cover image by Birgit Hermann / Inspired by Nature: Facebook | Instagram
MOUNTAIN BIKING AROUND DILI
ON THIS PAGE: GETTING STARTED | DILI RIDES | RIDES OUTSIDE DILI | BIKING TIPS
Note: For the information on this page (and elsewhere), there is no guarantee regarding accuracy. Please make informed decisions about your biking adventures, and be safe. But most of all, have fun!
Timor Leste is an adventure cyclist’s paradise. Especially if you like hills. Whether you have a road, gravel, mountain, tandem, or electric bike, there’s a ride option for you.
Trust us, though, you’re going to want a mountain bike. Read on to learn why, and where you can ride.
GET STARTED BIKING IN DILI
Biking in Dili is not for the faint of heart. If you are not an experienced cyclist, you might want to start pedaling somewhere with bike lanes and without microlets that pull over in front of you to let their passengers out, whenever they please.
We don’t want to completely discourage aspiring bikers. But this particular guide is geared toward serious cyclists who are looking for outdoor exercise and adventure. (For using a bike to get around the city, look for Transportation information in the Life section of this website.)
Most avid biking expats bring their own pedal machine to Timor Leste. Decent Indonesian brands can be bought from Tio Cycling+. They also sell biking items such as tubes, gloves, and other cycling paraphernalia, as does United bike shop near the Presidential Palace. You can also try to pick up a used bicycle from an expat who’s leaving town, or who just doesn’t want to get up at 5 am any more to conquer 20% gradients.
Dili Guide recommends you have a mountain bike. Knobby tires and some suspension will help you explore hidden gems on mountain dirt, where the best riding is. Road biking is possible but options are limited, with unsealed roads, rough surfaces, and large potholes not at all unusual.
Either way, be ready for spectacular early morning rides. That’s right, you’ll want to ride early to beat the heat. But you’ll be rewarded with brilliant sunrises and magnificent scenery that makes waking up worth it.
Don’t want to ride alone? Groups of local and expat riders organize themselves informally and pedal out together, weekdays and weekends. Start with the “Timor-Leste MTB” group on Facebook.
You can also hook up with Timor Leste’s man of the mountains, MTB kingpin Tomas Ato Freitas. He has been leading a trail-building effort in the hills outside Dili to help boost Timor as a biking destination. Contact him to get in early on Dili’s adventure bike tourism efforts!
DILI RIDES
There’s plenty of rides in and close to Dili. Strava is popular with cyclists here, so you can search maps to find common segments and routes. Here’s a few of our favorite rides, to get you started.
Dare
Dare (pronounced “dar-ay”), nestled in the hills above Dili, is a favorite climb by cycling regulars. There’s two main routes up to the Dare Memorial Museum and Cafe: the steep or the steeper. The steep route climbs up from the national stadium via the Lahane roundabout. The steeper, often called Reverse Dare, has an obscure start on village-like tracks in Dili’s back neighborhoods.
However you go up, the Dare cafe is a great place to stop for a coffee, juice, or toasted sandwich while enjoying beautiful views over Dili. From the cafe you can continue climbing or take one of the many routes down, from the popular Dare ¾ single track, to the custom-built mountain bike trails (see section below), or back down one of the roads.
You can also visit Laletek Nanis Domin cafe, home to Dili’s Eiffel Tower, where you can grab a coffee, coconut, or pizza and soak in the views over the hillsides and out to Atauro. Service can be slow, and not everything on the menu is always available, so come with a sense of patience and take some selfies at one of the Insta spots. There’s limited signage – ask for directions once you reach Dare.
Hera loop
This is a popular loop that takes you over Becora hill into Hera, then along the local farms at Hera, and back by the coast. For those who want an upper body workout, on the way back to Dili you can turn right onto the dirt route to Cristo Rei backside beach then carry your bike up over the Cristo Rei staircase. Otherwise, return via the somewhat-unimproved Horta Hill road. A stop at Beachside Cafe or Caz Bar is recommended for a well-deserved coffee, coconut, or a bite to eat.
Dili loop
Whether you’re new to Dili or just looking to explore more on a bike, the Dili loop is a great way to observe Dili life. Join the Dili MTB group for an early morning ride passing through river beds, navigating backstreets, smelling fresh bread from roadside sellers, and hearing plenty of “Bondia!”s as Dili awakes. Enjoy a coffee from one of the many cafes along the beach road at the end.
Liquica and/or Maubara
For an ‘as flat as you’ll get’ coastal ride that’s also almost completely on a sealed road, pedal out of Dili via Tasi Tolu and the new Tibar port, passing the Ai Pelo Prison ruins en route to Liquica. Enjoy a meal and an ocean swim at Lauhata or Alma Do Mar ‘resorts’ on the eastern edge of Liquica town before either returning to Dili or adding some extra kilometers by continuing to Maubara. We recommend the Maubara Tasi cafe (blue building) for tamarind juice, and the fort and local markets for well priced handicrafts.
Railaco and Gecko Cafe/Timor Global
This is a mainly sealed road ride meandering up the steady climb (with great views) to Railaco Ridge. Near the top, a small village presents a great example of the Timorese traditional houses. A short descent from the ridge brings you to Gecko Cafe in Timor Global’s coffee HQ. While waiting for your coffee, take a quick look around at the processing samples or purchase some locally grown products like turmeric or civet coffee. Head back to Dili from here, or continue on to Gleno. If you want a real challenge, figure out the adventurous route home via ‘secret valley’ and Bazartette.
The waterfall ride
Heading out of Dili towards Aileu, this ride takes you alongside the Comoro River on a climb to a roadside waterfall – the road literally goes through the water. At the time of writing, the road is almost all sealed, though at times interrupted by landslide sections and large potholes. Dili Guide likes the loop behind the waterfall, an off-road climb and descent through small villages bringing you back out at the Comoro River.
Dili custom-built mountain bike trails
These community-supported MTB tracks are being built and popularized by Maun Tomas and his crew from 2023 onwards. Check out the video below and look for expanded information here soon, or simply head to mtbtimorleste.com for more info.
OUT OF DILI AND OVERNIGHT RIDES
There’s no shortage of rides outside of Dili, from coastal routes to rugged mountain climbs. Pack your bike in the car, find local transport, or simply explore your way to your destination by pedaling. There are no real bike shops outside of Dili, so you need to be fully prepared. For long trips, having a friend in a support car can be extremely helpful. Keep in mind that phone reception outside of Dili can be patchy and unreliable, so be sure to download your route options in advance.
Hatu-Builico
At the foot of Timor Leste’s highest mountain is the sleepy village of Hatu-Builico. The riding isn’t easy, so best for the more seasoned cyclists who enjoy remote off-road climbs and rocky descents. You’ll be rewarded with sweeping misty mountain views, twisting tracks, and traditional houses dotted across the countryside.
There’s plenty of route options, here’s two of our favorites:
- The stunning back route descent from Hatu-Builico to Ainaro starts with a short but tough rocky climb. Once you reach the top you can whizzzzzz to the bottom to claim the downhill Strava segment, or take your time and absorb spectacular views as the track meanders around mountain ridges. Expect to see Timor ponies, traditional houses, and the Dokomali waterfall in the distance. At the bottom you can continue along the road to Ainaro (where you’ll find a basic local restaurant) or test your legs on the road climb back to the Ramaleu turn-off, then off-road back to Hatu-Builico. It’s possible to find some local transport in Ainaro to take you back to Hatu-Builico, but no guarantees (bring cash). If doing the whole loop, you’ll need the good part of the day to complete, so don’t set off too late.
- Hatu-Builico to Dili, or ‘summit to the sea,’ is one of Dili Guide’s favorite rides in Timor. This back route adventure along trails less traveled offers stunning scenery, as you descend (and ascend) from the top of one of the world’s newest nations to the sea. You’ll have breathtaking views of the Ramalau and Letefoho mountain areas in the distance as you wind your way to Aileu. Other than the odd Timor pony, local farmers, and the occasional motorbike, you’ll mostly have the track to yourself. We suggest lunch at Projeto Montanha (order in advance as they are not the quickest), before making your way back to Dili. There’s many routes to Dili, with the adventurous route via Seloi Lake a favorite, including single track through farm land then crossing the Comoro River part way down the waterfall road from Aileu. Expect a full day ride and come fully prepared to be self-sufficient, including having the route downloaded in advance.
Balibo loop
This pleasant 18km loop is a good option to see more of Balibo and surrounding areas. From Balibo Fort, go through the town along a non-sealed forest track There’s some undulating hills as you pass through villages and enjoy good views of the hills along the Timor Leste /Indonesia border. Head back up the sealed road (be careful of traffic) to Balibo Fort. Local guide company Balibo Trails offers bike tours and rentals. Ask in advance about availability and the state of their rental bikes.
TIPS FOR BIKING IN TIMOR LESTE
- Always take water, snacks, some small change (in case your water or snacks run out), a puncture and repair kit, basic first aid, and sun protection.
- Expect to sweat a lot, so bring more water than you think you’ll need.
- Riding in Timor Leste you can expect the unexpected, so keep an eye on the road or track and look out for dogs, pigs, goats, chickens, children, potholes, mudholes, landslides, fallen trees, fallen-in bridges, and other unpredictable traffic or obstacles.
- Some basic Tetum is helpful, as you’ll hear a lot of “Malae!” (foreigner), “Ba ne’ebe?” (Where are you going?),” Bondia” (Good morning), and “Botarde” (Good afternoon). Hopefully you won’t hear many “Bonoite”s, unless you want to be hardcore like Maun Tomas and beat the heat by biking with a headlight after dark.
- No one plans for their bike to break, but if it does, Maun Orlando (find his shop in the Benfica sports complex near Pateo) and Tio Cycling+ can both do regular services and common repairs. When it comes to specialized parts, serious expat riders often bring in their own spares.
- Now that you are better prepared for mountain bicycling in Timor Leste, make sure you are always prepared with the one thing you need most to make any ride excellent: your sense of adventure!
Happy pedaling!
Dili Guide 